Monday, December 16, 2013

Assignment 3: El Raval

With the upcoming Olympic Games in 1992, the government of Barcelona set out to transform the "Barrio Chino", or El Raval, into a safer and more appealing area.  Before this process began, El Raval was infamous for its drug dealers, prostitutes and other unseemly activities.  In order to better the image of the neighborhood and keep the peace there, the government installed several new buildings, many of which we got to see on our field trip:

La Central library in the Iglesia Nuestra Senora de Misericordia - this church was built in the 16th century and was used as such until the end of the Civil War.  Later, it was used as a home and a workshop for a cabinetmaker, and then finally it became the La Central library that is located there today.  This library was created in 2003 with the same type of purpose as many of the other sites created in the Raval around that time: to help bring in a new, young, energetic crowd into the area in order to make it safer and more appealing.



MACBA - this is the contemporary art museum in Barcelona.  It was opened in November of 1995 and was designed to be an investment in revamping the public spaces of El Raval.  Its presence here has brought in art students, patrons, and skater youths alike (as the plaza in the front of the museum is perfect for skateboarding). 





CCCB - this is a public museum space available to use by everyone in the area.  It hosts a bunch of different exhibitions, art shows, festivals and many other activities.  Its main purpose is to promote activity within the neighborhood by involving the neighbors in free, enjoyable, intellectual activities. I saw a journalistic photo exposition here with my photography class called the World Press Photo 2013 exposition - it was absolutely incredible!




University of Barcelona (philosophy and geography buildings) - this campus used to be outside of the city center, but was moved here in order to bring the educated youth into this neighborhood. The government wanted more youth in the area because they bring with them a sense of energy and activity, and when they were integrated into this area, it made El Raval more vibrant and alive.

I think that the coolest thing we got to pass by on this field trip was the "ravalejar" sign. This is a Catalan verb that was created as a sort of motto for the Raval area.  It signifies the action of coming to the Raval and experiencing the essence of the neighborhood by walking around and participating in the cultural activities and the atmosphere of the neighborhood.  It also signifies how the area has been rebranded from "Barrio Chino" to the Raval.





Finally, I was fortunate enough to be able to go on the "Gentrification of the Raval" CEA activity earlier in the semester, so I've been to El Raval before and have had the opportunity to experience it a few more times since that activity. The areas that we walked through today on our field trip gave me the impression of a safe and active neighborhood, and I was not at all nervous or scared being in any of those spaces. During the CEA activity, we were taken deeper into the southern part of El Raval, which is less gentrified and is a sort of project that has just recently been undertaken by the government. They have begun to add new cultural buildings, including the Filmoteca de Catalunya, and social housing along with these investments. If you'd like to read about my experience, I've posted some excerpts from my field journal below:

"I really enjoyed exploring the Raval neighborhood during the “Gentrification in Barcelona” activity. I am from just outside of New York City originally, so I am fairly familiar with the story of the gentrification of Brooklyn, and I was therefore very intrigued to see how this phenomenon would be shown in El Raval. Walking through the first area we visited, I initially noticed many teenaged kids and youth and several hip boutiques. The streets were very populated and fairly clean, and I felt extremely safe walking here. Although we were clearly an American tour group, I felt no stares or animosity. I would come back to this particular area with a friend or group of friends without question (this includes the Hospital Santa Creu). As we continued on, however, I began to notice that the streets were emptying out and the stores were more local (like markets and small restaurant/bars). There seemed to be a fairly defined line between where tourists ventured and where they would not go. It was past this line that I began to feel unsafe. Because we were with Katryn and Anna, I did not feel like I was in any danger, but it was obvious that the people on the streets were a bit more dodgy. For example, at one point, we passed through a street lined with several prostitutes. While on their own prostitutes do not strike me as particularly dangerous, I automatically associate them with other illegal activity and feel uncomfortable. In the United States, any area with prostitutes standing in the open is generally an area that also has higher crime rates in areas such as muggings or car-jackings. When I saw these prostitutes in El Raval, I immediately felt my heart beat faster because I am so used to fleeing to a safer area if I see any sight of this type of activity.  In this same general area, I also started noticing much more racial/ethnic diversity. There were several stores with Pakistani workers and offers for Pakistani people (such as one which appeared to be translators, for example). We discussed at our next sit-down stop that these people were one example of immigrants in Barcelona. This was similar to what I’m used to seeing in America; there tend to be more languages spoken and more races to be seen (including immigrants) in less developed and more “dangerous” areas because the rent tends to be much lower."

"Overall, I had a great experience in the Raval area, and I personally concluded that the neighborhood was about halfway gentrified. The beginning area that we walked though appeared to me to be gentrified and is a place I would gladly return to, hopefully at night to check out the hip bar scene! However, I probably won’t return to the second un-gentrified half, especially at night."

Monday, December 9, 2013

News articles: Monday, December 9th

Barcelona news:
On December 7th, 2 young men were arrested for assaulting people with knives and machetes on Line 1 of the Metro in August.  Specifically, a 16-year-old on the train with another smaller child in a wagon was injured.  The images captured by the security cameras on the platforms helped the police to identify the men who had assaulted the youth.  One man is 21 and of Peruvian nationality, and the other is 16 and of Spanish nationality.  The two have been arrested, but released while awaiting trial, and the investigation remains open so that more information may be gleaned from anyone in the public who witnessed or has anything to say about the incident.

Find the article here: http://www.lavanguardia.com/sucesos/20131207/54395930089/dos-detenidos-por-agredir-con-machetes-a-un-menor-en-el-metro-de-barcelona.html

Spain news:
Also on the La Vanguardia website, I saw a very startling headline: a 3-year-old girl died in a housefire in Balaguer. Her whole family was in the home, but she was the only victim.  The fire started on the first floor of the house around midnight, for reasons that the firemen couldn't pinpoint yet, and the whole house was soon filled with smoke.  On the second floor of the home, the roof had partially collapsed.  Once the firefighters had put out the fire, they found her body on the stairs.  They assume that the cause of her death was the collapse of the roof on top of her.  She was pronounced dead at the scene, and thus, she wasn't taken to the hospital.

How terrible!

Find the article here: http://www.lavanguardia.com/sucesos/20131209/54395312866/muere-nina-tres-incendio-balaguer.html


International news:
One of the biggest news stories in the past week has been the death of the great Nelson Mandela.  La Vanguardia published an article about the celebrations of his life that have been occurring since in South Africa.  The article details the status of Mandela as an icon of South Africans, and describes how many groups of people of different races, religions and social classes took to the streets to dance, sing and celebrate the life of this amazing man.  The South African police are transporting his coffin to his hometown, Qunu, 60 miles away from the nearest airport.  They expect for citizens to be lined up along the streets to pay their respects for the entire journey.

Find the article here: http://www.lavanguardia.com/internacional/20131208/54395283084/sudafrica-celebra-vida-mandela.html 

Sunday, December 8, 2013

5 Cultural Events

1. See my post about my Dad's visit (since this has many cultural sights in Spain, I also included some extras of other places I've visited in Europe).

2. See my post about my amazing trip to Istanbul, Turkey!

3. La Diada:

Wednesday, September 11th was La Diada de Catalunya, the national holiday of Catalonia.  It commemorates the defeat of the Catalan people in trying to secede from Spain in 1714.  As we have learned in class, the Aragon/Catalonian troops were defeated on this day by the hated Bourbon king Felipe V.

This year, there was a 1.6-million-person chain crossing all over Barcelona and the rest of Catalonia to show how united Catalan people are in wanting to become an independent nation. There were parades and concerts, and it was really cool to be a part of something so culturally important! Definitely one of the coolest experiences I’ve had here so far.

image
The Arc de Triomf and the Catalan flag

image
People linking hands to form part of the chain

image
These signs were all over the place!

Some more people linking hands - everyone was there, young and old!


Some adorable little kids full of spirit and pride


The set of pictures above is of a really awesome band that was going through and providing entertainment for all the people who were participating in the day's events.

It was all so cool to witness and be a part of, and it's definitely not something I will be forgetting any time soon.

4. The Festival of La Merce:

Around 6 pm on Sunday, September 23rd, I met up with 3 of my friends and we headed to the Placa St. Jaume to get dinner and watch the Correfoc of the festival La Merce.  “La Merce” is Barcelona’s biggest festival that lasts about 4-5 days and honors their patron saint, the virgin of La Merce.  The Correfoc is one of the biggest events that happens in the whole festival - it’s a “fire run” where different groups run around a street in a semi-civilized fire parade.  It’s absolutely nuts and would never ever happen in the US because of legal issues (there would definitely be someone who would sue the crap out of these people with giant sparklers).  Interestingly, here parents come to it with their children, and the little kids actually run around underneath the sparklers.  They all wear thick protective hoodies and goggles, but it’s still a cultural shock to see these little kids playing in sparks… The event was probably one of the coolest things I have ever experienced and I seriously wish I had bought a cheap hoodie that I didn’t care about to run around in the sparklers too.

image



image


(In the above picture, the kids and their parents all are standing under a sort of umbrella of sparks because the sparkler/firework things that the members of the parade are holding spin around really quickly while they release the sparks.)


image


The pictures I took (above) were cool, but my friend Jordan had a much better camera with him (mine was my iPhone 4), so his look SO much cooler.  He also went in the actual fire run:


image



image
(I think this one belongs on a poster…)


After our ears had had enough of the fire run, I ran into my roommate and her boyfriend and we headed towards carnival lights that we saw toward the beach.  They had a cute carnival, just like the a yearly carnival we have in my town, called the Hindley Happening, with a ferris wheel, some prize booths with games, and some of the scarier rides.

image


image


It looked like a lot of fun, but the lines were long for the tame things, and the others weren’t feeling all that well from their crazy weekend trip - not that I was complaining, because I'm not a huge fan of spinning rides and things.  After we wandered slowly through the whole scene, we sat for a while at a nearby restaurant where we could still people watch and observe all the carnival-goers.

5. Dachau Concentration Camp outside of Munich, Germany:

After a very interesting night at my first ever hostel in Munich, Germany, my friend and I woke up early to head to the Dachau concentration camp on the outskirts of Munich.

Dachau was the first Nazi concentration camp ever opened in Germany.  At many points in its history, the torturous camp held many more prisoners than it was ever intended to, including Jews, criminals, the mentally ill, homosexuals, and foreigners from areas that Germany invaded.  This meant that the camp was almost constantly at several times its true capacity.

While it was definitely scary, I so enjoyed exploring such an amazing memorial site - I don’t even think I have adequate words to describe how moving and emotional the experience was. It was especially strange to see that on Friday, and then celebrate so fiercely on Saturday - a very weird pairing. I got a lot of amazing photos, although I’m sure they don’t nearly convey how I felt there!

image
The prisoners’ entrance - the words mean “work will set you free”.

image
The reconstructed perimeter of the camp - a ditch, then barbed wire on the ground, then an electric fence, then a brick wall.

image
The barracks where the prisoners lived (this room was meant to house 200 men, and at one point held up to 2,000).

image


image
The crematorium

image
The crematorium

image
The furnaces and the gas chamber. Absolutely terrifying.

image

Overall, it was an amazing experience and I’m so glad we chose to go there instead of spending two days in the Oktoberfest tents.

Tuesday, November 26, 2013

Neighborhood Information: Fort Pienc


During my stay here in Barcelona, I have been living in the Residencia Onix in the neighborhood of Fort Pienc.  It is located in the Eixample district of Barcelona.




The neighborhood’s name comes from the name of a military fort that used to exist in that location until the 19th century (Fort Pius).  The area has a bus station, called Estacio del Nord, and a metro stop, called Arc de Triomf.



The most interesting places in the neighborhood include the Arc de Triomf, Ciutadella Park, and the Estacio del Nord.  The Arc de Triomf was built for the 1888 World’s Fair in the Neo-Mudejar style by Josep Vilaseca i Casanovas.  It stands at the meeting point of the street Passeig de Sant Joan and the promenade of Passeig de Lluis Companys, which leads to Ciutadella Park.  



This park was created in the 19th century when the old Citadel was finally demolished.  Within the 70 acres of the park, one can find a zoo, a lake, a beautiful fountain designed by Josep Fontsere, and much more.  


The zoo used to house a very famous albino gorilla named Snowflake, but it died in 2003.  This year, they hosted a few exhibits in honor of the 10th anniversary of the gorilla’s death. 



Estacio del Nord is the current bus station of Barcelona.  However, it also serves many other functions as well.  It contains a large sports complex, with a gym and open areas, and it still holds the table tennis room that was used for the 1992 Olympics.  
 
The market in our neighborhood is called Mercat de Fort Pienc.  It is relatively small but still has many varied stands with fruit, vegetables, meat, bread, fish and more.  The market is run by the vendors, and is closed during the traditional “siesta” time every day and all day on Sundays.  



In the basement, below the market, there is a Mercadona, part of a chain grocery store.  The fresher items in the Mercat are generally more expensive than those in the Mercadona, but with certain items of food, the higher price is very worth paying for the delicious freshness.

Finally, the Civic Center in Fort Pienc is a center that offers many services and activities for children, adults, and seniors.  It contains a library, a daycare/children's center area, kitchens, classrooms, music rooms, and many other facilities.  The center also offers courses and workshops, including different forms of art and exercise classes! Often, when I am walking to the market, I can see that in every arm chair in the library sits an old man reading the day's newspaper.


Tuesday, November 5, 2013

Dad's visit

Dad and Barbara arrived on Friday, and I met up with them around 4 at their hotel on Las Ramblas. I had already bought tickets for the Sagrada Familia online, so we took a taxi straight there and got to skip the line! I had caught glimpses of the outside of it before, but there’s nothing like standing right there underneath the towering thing.  It’s absolutely beautiful.
image
The construction isn’t predicted to be completed until around 2040.  It’s nuts.
The inside was even more beautiful - unlike ANYTHING I’ve ever seen before in my life.
image

image

image


After we took in as much as we possibly could, we headed back to the hotel to change for dinner. We took a taxi toward the beach and walked around for a bit before sitting down at Can Majo for a delicious seafood dinner.  We shared some amazing paella with extra seafood.
image
(That was my portion - SO GOOD!)

We went to check out the bar in the W on it’s own little peninsula after we had filled ourselves to the brim with paella and delicious desserts.  It was a reeeally cool place with delicious sweet drinks, but we definitely regretted the whole she-bang in the morning… WAY too much sugar in those drinks and not enough water. Or something of that nature.

Struggling to get a move on Saturday morning, I went to meet them at their hotel hoping that I wasn’t the only one feeling crappy.  They didn’t feel so great either, and luckily we were heading to one of the best hangover brunch spots in Barcelona: Milk.  I had a great cup of coffee, a LOT of water, and some delicious eggs Benedict, the same meal I’d had the last time I went to Milk. After breakfast, we went to see La Catedral, which was obviously just as beautiful even the second time around.  We quickly saw the Temple of Augustus ruins, but Dad had already seen lots of cool Greek ruins this summer, so it wasn’t necessary to stay there too long.

We grabbed a cab back on Via Laietana and headed out towards Montjuic.  I’d been wanting to go for so long so I was getting really excited even though I wasn’t feeling so great.  We took a cable car up to the top of the mountain, then walked our way down.  At the top, there was a gorgeous castle with a cool exhibition and concert actually going on in the middle.  The concert didn’t start until later that night so they were only setting up for it, but it was cool to see all the people milling around the old creepy castle.
image

image

image


We walked down the mountain through pathways and on roads, it was really beautiful! The Olympic Stadium was so cool too.
image
image

We went back later and napped and changed, then tried to find a place to watch the Madrid Barcelona soccer match - a huge deal around here.  We were running a little late so most places were already stuffed full, and we had to settle for a crappy little place.  It ended up turning out okay though because we got to see the game, Barca won, and we met this adorable little old lady from Berlin named Ruth.  She had the coolest story about how she escaped from Berlin in ‘63 and then moved to Australia.  She was traveling here with a tour, and had been eating dinner alone so we invited her to eat with us!

Because the food there was pretty gross, we stopped into a cute place called Barnauda for tapas later on.  We ate a bunch of types of cheese and a lot of the high quality jamon iberico, a Spanish specialty.  We barhopped after that, and tried two cool places called the Attic and Luzia.  The Attic was a rooftop place with a douchey bartender, but Luzia was right across from the hotel and was really cool! I want to try to get back there at some point - maybe I’ll take Mom and Sarah.
Sunday morning we woke up and went to Park Guell.  We started by exploring around the park because we didn’t want to wait in the huge line to get into the more famous area.  We thought maybe we could sneak in somehow or find another way in, but we ended up getting lost a couple of times and never making it in.  You could see most of the cool stuff from the outside I think, but either way, I’ll be going again with Mom and Sarah so I wasn’t too worried.
image

image

image


Next on our agenda was heading outside the city to a little beach town called Sitges.  It was SO much fun and an absolutely gorgeous day.
image
We had lunch at this AMAZING (and expensive) place called Maricel. We ordered ceviche, beef tartare and octopus and I devoured as much as I could of every single one.
image

image

image


After we were stuffed, we sat on the beach for a while and Dad and I went swimming. Such an unbelievable day!
image

image

image

We headed back toward Barcelona just before the sun set, and showered and changed before dinner.  For dinner, we went to a little place called La Vinateria del Call in the old Jewish Quarter within Barri Gotic.  It was really hidden and hard to find but we made it there!  We ate a bunch of different traditional dishes, including more iberico and more cheese plates.  I tried sheep cheese, duck and venison. After dinner, we wandered around the back streets some more and found a little place called Saltezio with a Moroccan feel to it.  When I say little, I mean this place was tiny, had a tabletop burner stove, and served only a couple things.  It was really cute!  The owner of the place was there at the little bar, and Barbara and I spoke to him in Spanish for a while, which was really cool.  I am so freaking rusty though!

After Saltezio, I took them to Plaza George Orwell, where Carol and I had gone to lunch at that amazing vegetarian place a couple weeks ago.  There’s a cool bar there that I’ve peeked into called Bar Oviso with a funky crowd.  It was awesome there, except that the bartender poured me a drink with 75% Absolut, even though I asked for “menos vodka y mas soda”.  I had an open-note midterm in history the next morning (sorry Xavi), so I headed home without drinking that awful drink.
Monday, my test went fairly well and I turned in my photo assignment on portraits that I thought were pretty cool! Here are my favorites:

image

image

image

image
(This last one’s my favorite of the 4 I think…)

After class was over, I met them back at the top of Las Ramblas and we walked to Brunch and Cake for a delicious and healthy lunch.  When we were done, I took them back to my neighborhood on the metro and they got to see my dorm room, my residencia building, the Arc de Triomf and Centennial Park.



image

At the Zoo entrance, we went right and walked through El Born for a little while. We wandered and got to explore the cute back streets. I got a tan sweater in a little shop and we stopped in one of those fish spas where the little fish eat the dead skin off of your feet. It felt absolutely weird but so cool!




For dinner, we went back toward the direction of their hotel and stopped in a place on the corner called Bar Lobo.  We ordered a bunch of tapas and split them between us. Beef carpaccio, tomato and mozzarella, grilled artichokes and more of my beloved octopus - deeeelicious! After we ate, we tried out an underground live music club called Jamboree, which had a really great first act and a really awful second. We left then and stumbled upon a place called Tasty, where this huge group of Danish 17-year-old boys (or around that age) came in and ordered 20 shots. It was hysterical. Apparently, Danes can really drink…

image